Cosmetic composition and methods of use

ABSTRACT

There are disclosed cosmetic compositions and methods for protection of keratinous tissue against environmental aggressors, such as smoke, smog and UV radiation. The compositions have as an essential antioxidant: (i) hesperetin, (ii) tetrahydrocurcumin, (iii) tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, or (iv) tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, or mixtures of thereof. The compositions are preferably in the form of oil in water emulsions and may optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, sunscreens, additional antioxidants, emollients, skin protectants, hair protectants, nail protectants and the like.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0001] 1. Field of the Invention

[0002] The present invention relates to cosmetic, particularly skin careand treatment, compositions. More particularly, the present inventionrelates to emulsified cosmetic compositions having certain antioxidants.The antioxidants have been found highly effective in ameliorating orpreventing damage to keratinous tissue, such as skin, hair and nails,caused by aggressive environmental substances, such as smoke and otheratmospheric pollutants, as well as minimizing or relieving damage causedby ultraviolet radiation.

[0003] 2. Description of the Prior Art

[0004] Skin treatment compositions are extensively described in the art.Emulsified skin treatment compositions are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.5,093,109 to Mausner, which issued on Mar. 3, 1992. This patent providesan anti-aging composition comprising water, an anti-aging agent, asunscreen, a preservative, a thickener, an antioxidant and anemulsifier. This patent discloses only “Tenox II”, a product of EastmanChemical Products, Inc., and ascorbyl palmitate as suitableantioxidants.

[0005] U.S. Pat. No. 4,742,066 to Deckner et al., which issued on May 3,1988, discloses a method for inhibiting the generation of free radicalsin the skin. The method comprises applying a composition that may be inthe form of an emulsion in which the free radical inhibitor may beethoxyquin or “Trolox C”. “Trolox C” is a product of Hoffmann-LaRoche.

[0006] U.S. Pat. No. 4,603,046 to Georgalas et al. issued on Jul. 29,1986. This patent discloses skin treatment compositions having enhancedultraviolet absorbing properties in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.The essential ingredient is troxerutin and the preferred antioxidant isTenox II, as disclosed in the Mausner patent noted above.

[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 4,424,234 to Anderson et al., which issued on Jan.3, 1984, discloses cosmetic formulations for application to the skin.The formulations have a hydroxy alkanoic acid as the essentialingredient and which may contain tocopherol, propyl gallate, ascorbylpalmitate, butylated hydroxy toluene or butylated hydroxy anisole asantioxidants. The compositions, which may be in the form of emulsions,are particularly useful for the treatment of dry skin.

[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 5,861,415 to Majeed et al., which issued on Jan.19, 1999, discloses the pharmaceutical use as a bioprotectant of amixture of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin and bis-demethoxycurcumin derivedfrom the herb turmeric (Curcuma longa). The present invention uses thetetrahydrocurcumin derivatives as antioxidants in an emulsified skintreatment composition.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmeticcompositions having certain antioxidants.

[0010] It is another object of the present invention to provide suchcompositions that have a number of benefits in connection with care ofand prevention of damage to keratinous tissue. The compositions of thisinvention may be in the form of gels, lotions, serums, anhydrous sticks,oil based sprays, oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions.

[0011] It is a further object of the present invention to provide suchcompositions that are a strong defense against environmental aggressorssuch as smoke, smog, ozone, atmospheric pollutants, free radicals andultraviolet radiation.

[0012] These and other objects of the present invention are achieved bya cosmetic composition comprising an essential antioxidant selected fromthe group consisting of:

[0013] (i) hesperetin;

[0014] (ii) tetrahydrocurcumin;

[0015] (iii) tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin;

[0016] (iv) tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin; and

[0017] (v) mixtures of (i), (ii), (iii) or (iv).

[0018] The composition may also include one or more emulsifiers,preservatives, thickeners and fragrances.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] In accordance with the present invention, there has beendiscovered cosmetic compositions, preferably in the form of an oil inwater emulsion. The term “cosmetic” includes skin care, hair care andnail care compositions. The composition has an essential antioxidant.The essential antioxidant is (i) hesperetin, (ii) tetrahydrocurcumin,(iii) tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, or (iv)tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, or mixtures of two or more of any of theaforesaid antioxidants. The composition may also include one or moreemulsifiers, preservatives, and thickeners.

[0020] The compositions of the present invention will preferably containeither hesperetin, tetrahydrocurcumin, terahydrodemethoxycurcumin orterahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin, as an essential antioxidant ingredient.More preferably, the composition will contain at least two of theseantioxidants. Most preferably, each of the four antioxidants will bepresent in the cosmetic composition. An even more preferred compositionis the mixture of four essential antioxidants, and one or moreemulsifiers, preservatives and thickeners in the form of an oil-in-wateremulsion.

[0021] The compositions of the present invention offer a number ofbenefits in connection with care and prevention of damage to keratinoustissue. For example, the compositions are quickly absorbed, are notgreasy or sticky, and are lightweight. The compositions are suitable forall skin, hair and nail types. They nourish and fortify the skin andimprove the skin's appearance, especially dry or sun damaged skin. Also,the compositions provide climatic self-adjusting moisture. Importantly,the compositions provide strong defense against environmental aggressorssuch as smoke, smog, ozone, atmospheric pollutants, free radicals andultraviolet radiation. Further, the compositions leave the skin smootherand less fragile. They help to prevent and temporarily protect chafed,cracked or windburned skin. When formulated in one preferred embodimentwith one or more sunscreens, the compositions prevent tanning andsunburning, and reduce the risk of premature aging of the skin.

[0022] With respect to the essential antioxidants, hesperetin is4-methoxy-5,7,3-trihydroxyflavone and has the structure:

[0023] Hesperetin is used in its pure form in the present compositions,but may be isolated from grapefruit. It is also found in lemons andoranges. In the present compositions, it is present in an amount about0.01 percentage by weight (wt. %) to about 3.0 wt. %, preferably about0.1 wt. %, of the total weight of the composition.

[0024] Tetrahydrocurcumin, terahydrodemethoxycurcumin andterahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin may be represented by the structure:

[0025] When R₁ and R₂ are —OCH₃, the structure representstetrahydrocurcumin (THC). When R₁ and R₂ are, respectively, —H and—OCH₃, the structure represents terahydrodemethoxycurcumin (THDC). WhenR₁ and R₂ are both —H, the structure representstetrahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin (THBDC). A preferred antioxidant is amixture of these three compounds. Such a mixture will typically containabout 75 wt. % to about 95 wt. % of THC, about 8 wt. % to about 20 wt. %of THDC, and about 1 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of THBDC. The mixture, oreach of these compounds individually, i.e., THC, THDC or THBDC, may beused in the present compositions in an amount about 0.1 wt. % to about5.0 wt. %, preferably about 0.75 wt. % to about 1.5 wt. %, and morepreferably about 1.0 wt. %.

[0026] The emulsifiers may be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic,amphoteric or nonionic when the composition is prepared in the form ofan oil in water or water in oil emulsion. Suitable emulsifiers includepolymeric acrylate emulsifiers, polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitanmonolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol,sorbitan tristearate, polyethyleneglycol 40 stearate, sorbitantrioleate, glyceryl, monopalmitate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate, polyethylene glycol 100stearate, cetearyl glucoside, polyethylene glycol 20 stearyl ether (Brij78, Steareth 20), polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol (Laureth23), polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) or lecithin. The composition orformulation will preferably contain a mixture of two or more of theseemulsifiers or others that are approved for cosmetic use. The totalamount of emulsifier will vary from about 1 wt. % to about 10 wt. % ofthe composition, preferably about 2.5 wt. % to about 3.0 wt. %.

[0027] The preservatives are any preservative suitable for use in atopically applied cosmetic product. Such preservatives includeimidazolidinyl urea, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol, disodiumEDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid), methyl paraben, ethyl parabenor butyl paraben. The preservative will be present in amounts effectiveto prevent bacteria growth. Typically, these amounts range from about 1wt. % to about 3 wt. %.

[0028] Each composition should have at least one thickener to ensurethat it has the proper viscosity when applied to the skin. Preferredthickeners are the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B. F. GoodrichCompany under the trademark of Carbopol resins. Examples of suchthickeners include, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Other thickeners or gelling agentsthat may be present include, but are not limited to, stearic acid, fattyalcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, magnesium aluminumsilicate, polyacrylamide/isoparaffin/laureth-7 (Seppigel), hydroxyethylcellulose, propylene glycol monostearate, hydroxypropyl cellulose,carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, myristyl stearate, and cetylstearate. The amount of thickener is in the range about 0.5 wt. % toabout 2.5 wt. %, preferably about 0.6 wt. %.

[0029] Besides the antioxidant, emulsifier, preservative and thickener,the composition may include water. Water will typically comprise about55 wt. % to about 90 wt. %, preferably about 58 wt. % to about 60 wt. %of the total weight of the composition. All of the other ingredients areemulsified or dispersed into the water, when the composition is preparedin the form of a oil in water emulsion, which is preferred, except wherethe ingredients are water soluble.

[0030] The present compositions will preferably contain one or moresunscreens or UV (ultraviolet) absorbing agents, when the composition isdirected to day use. Preferably, the sunscreens will have at least onecompound that absorbs in the UV-B region (wavelength 290 to 320nanometers) and optionally one or more other compounds that absorb inthe UV-A region (wavelength 320 to 400 nanometers). The total amount ofUV absorbing agents included within the formulation will be about 2 wt.% to about 15 wt. %. It is preferred that the composition have about 7wt. % to about 9 wt. % ethylhexyl-methoxycinnamate, about 3 wt. % toabout 5 wt. % benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), and about 1 wt. % to about 3wt. % butyl methoxybenzoylmethane.

[0031] Suitable sunscreens are set forth below with their preferredconcentrations in weight percent: SUNSCREEN Wt. % Oxybenzone  2-10Sulsiobenzone  5-10 Dioxybenzone 1-3 Methyl Anthranilate 3-6 ParaAminobenzoic Acid (PABA)  5-15 DEA Methoxycinnamate  8-10 Octocrylene 7-10 Octyl Methoxycinnamate*  2-10 Octyl Salicylate 3-5 HomomenthylSalicylate  4-15 Octyl Dimethyl PABA 1.4-5   TEA Slicylate  5-12Titanium Dioxide  2-25 Zinc Oxide  2-25 Butylmethoxy Dibenzoylmethane**0.1-5   Octyl Triazole 0.1-10  Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1-4Terephthalydidene Dicamphor 0.1-5   Sulfonic Acid and Salts Thereof***Ethyl PABA  -10 2-(2′-Hydroxy-5′-Methylphenyl) 0.5-10  Benzotriazole****Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl-  1-10 Tetramethylbutylphenol*****Bis-Octylphenol Methoxyphenyl  1-10 Triazine******

[0032] In addition to the essential antioxidant, the composition of thepresent invention may preferably contain one or more additionalantioxidants such as gamma oryzanol (a ferulic acid ester ofcycloartenol), mixed tocopherols (a mixture of isomers of Vitamin E),ascorbyl monopalmitate, algae extract (a seaweed extract that hasbiomolecules of fuhalol and phloretol), tomato extract (a naturalextract that contains lycopene), rosemary extract (Rosmarinusofficinalis), or decarboxy carnosine hydrochloride(a pseudodipeptide).Most preferably, all of these additional antioxidants are present, eachin amounts about 0.01 wt. % to about 1.0 wt. %.

[0033] The compositions of the present invention may also contain about3 wt. % to about 7 wt. % of a humectant. Suitable humectants includepropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, sodium2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, collagen, dibutyl phthalate, gelatin, andthe 10 to 20 mol ethoyxylate or propoxylate of glucose.

[0034] Emollients may also be present in an amount about 3 wt. % toabout 12 wt %. Suitable emollients or oleaginous materials include oneor more of the following: mineral oil, petrolatum, glyceryl monooleate,myristyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate, avocado oil, squalane, octylpalmitate, cocoa butter, sesame oil, propylene glycoldicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl dimerate (thatis, the diester of isopropyl alcohol and dimer acid) and dimethicone.Preferred for use in the present compositions are petrolatum, alsofunctioning as an occlusivity agent, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol esters of benzoicacid, and dicaprylyl maleate.

[0035] The present compositions, when used in the form of emulsions, maybe prepared using techniques well known in the emulsion art. Forexample, first add any water soluble ingredients to the aqueous phase,heat the aqueous phase to about 50 to about 90° C., then disperse intothe aqueous phase both the emulsifiers and oleaginous components withstirring. Then, allow the composition to cool to room temperature toform a stable emulsion.

[0036] The present invention is illustrated by the following example ofa skin care and treatment composition:

EXAMPLE

[0037] A stable oil in water emulsion skin treatment composition wasprepared composed of the following (% is by weight): Percent Ingredient 60% demineralized water  0.2% disodium EDTA  0.6% Carbopol 934  0.75%glyceryl monostearate  0.95% Steareth-2 emulsifier (propylene glycol 20stearyl ether)  0.95% polyethylene glycol 40 stearate  0.25% stearylalcohol  1.0% benzyl alcohol  0.2% methylparaben  0.1% hesperetin  1.0%micture of tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydroemethoxycurcumin andtetrahydrobis- demethoxycurcumin q.s. conventional antioxidants,sunscreens, humectants, emollients, odor remover, pH adjuster andmasking agent 100.00%

[0038] The compositions of the present invention provide many methods ofprotecting and improving the appearance of the skin. For example, thepresent invention also comprises a method of protecting the skin andpreventing damage from the adverse effects of environmental substancesthat may come into contact with the skin, such as smoke, smog, ozone andother atmospheric pollutants. Further, the present invention includes amethod of protecting the skin from sunburn damage, a method ofneutralizing free radicals which may come into contact with the skin,and a method of protecting chafed, cracked, sunburned or windburned skinfrom further damage. The present invention also includes a method forthe treatment, prevention or amelioration of skin changes associatedwith intrinsic or extrinsic aging. Each method comprises topicallyapplying to the skin a composition of the present invention.

[0039] The present invention having been described with particularreference to the preferred forms thereof, it will be obvious thatvarious changes and modifications may be made herein without departingfrom the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined in theappended claims.

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic composition comprising: an antioxidantselected from the group consisting of: (i) hesperetin, (ii)tetrahydrocurcumin, (iii) tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, (iv)tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, and (v) mixtures of (i), (ii), (iii) or(iv); and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
 2. The composition of claim1, further comprising an emulsifier, a preservative, and a thickener. 3.The composition of claim 2, further comprising a sunscreen.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 3, wherein said sunscreen is selected from thegroup consisting of ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof.
 5. The composition ofclaim 2, further comprising an additional antioxidant.
 6. Thecomposition of claim 5, wherein said additional antioxidant is selectedfrom the group consisting of gamma oryzanol, mixed tocopherols, ascorbylmonopalmitate, algae extract, tomato extract, rosemary extract,decarboxy carnosine hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof.
 7. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein said antioxidant is hesperetin, andwherein the hesperetin is present in an amount about 0.01 wt. % to about3.0 wt. % of the total weight of the composition.
 8. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein said antioxidant is the mixture of tetrahydrocurcumin,tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, andwherein the mixture is present in an amount about 0.1 wt. % to about 5.0wt. % of the total weight of the composition.
 9. The composition ofclaim 7, wherein the antioxidant is a mixture of hesperetin andtetrahydrocurcumin.
 10. The composition of claim 7, wherein theantioxidant is a mixture of hesperetin and terahydrodemethoxycurcumin.11. The composition of claim 7, wherein the antioxidant is a mixture ofhesperetin and terahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin.
 12. The composition ofclaim 8, wherein the antioxidant mixture further comprises hesperetin.13. The composition of claim 2, wherein the composition is in the formof an oil-in-water emulsion.
 14. A method of protecting the skin fromthe adverse effects of environmental substances that may come intocontact with the skin, the method comprising applying to the skin thecomposition of claim
 1. 15. A method of protecting the skin from sunburndamage, the method comprises applying to the skin the composition ofclaim
 3. 16. A method of improving the appearance of the skin, themethod comprises applying to the skin the composition of claim
 2. 17. Amethod of preventing damage to the skin from smoke, ozone or otheratmospheric pollutants, the method comprises applying to the skin thecomposition of claim
 1. 18. A method of neutralizing free radicals thatmay come into contact with the skin, the method comprises applying tothe skin the composition of claim
 2. 19. A method of protecting chafed,cracked, sunburned or windburned skin from further damage, the methodcomprises applying to the skin the composition of claim
 2. 20. A methodfor the treatment, prevention or amelioration of skin changes associatedwith intrinsic or extrinsic aging, the method comprises applying to theskin the composition of claim 1.